Uaimh na Gréine (The Cave of the Sun)
In the Bru na Boinne (Valley of the Boyne river), County Meath, Ireland there is a fascinating structure of mystery and myth called Newgrange. The current best guess places its construction 5,200 years ago to 3,200 BC. This dates the structure to a time before the building of Stonehenge and the Great Pyramid at Giza. The age of this "monument" makes it one of the most important archaeological finds in Europe. But who built it and why? Is it a burial site or a religious temple? These are the main questions surrounding Newgrange, also known as the Cave of the Sun.
Newgrange is at the center of an ancient Boyne valley megalithic culture and is surrounded by other grassy mounds known as Sidhe by the Irish. The site, and in fact the entire valley is considered sacred as a burial place and for ritualistic reasons. It is part of a group of 40 passage tombs including Knowth and Dowth. Passage tombs are generally found in groups, which brings forth the theory that they were ancient cemeteries. They consist of a round mound or cairn with a long stone lined passage leading from the outside to an interior chamber.
Newgrange itself was first brought to attention in 1699 when the then overgrown mound was 'rediscovered'. The mound and its circle of standing stones cover a complete acre of ground. The entrance itself is almost sixty feet long and leads to a main chamber that is 19 feet high. In each of the recesses of the cloverleaf chamber within the structure, the walls are carved with intricate, swirling designs. Each recess held a mammoth granite bowl and it is now theorized that the bowls held the King's ashes.
Yet the purpose of Newgrange still remains a mystery. Portions of the site do not support the grave theory. The structure contains a roofbox, which allows the morning sun to shine into the chamber on the Winter Soltice. The winter solstice is the shortest day of the year and symbolized the 'return of light' or the start of a New Year. This is a function usually reserved for Temples and Newgrange is the only passage grave so far excavated which has this characteristic. Was the site a one-time temple that was later modified into a tomb?
During the original excavation, the remains of several individuals were found. Whether they were placed in burial or not remains a mystery. In fact, there are now few artifacts in the interior that would signify a grave, but the 'tomb' was open to access over the centuries so it is reasonable to assume that anything of value was taken long ago. There are however, stories from the past that help to unravel the mysteries of this site.
In Irish Myth and Legend, the Sidhe are associated with the Tuatha De Dannan (Gaelic for People of the Goddess Danu). Newgrange itself was the home of Aenghus mac Og, the Great God of Love. It is said that he won his home by a trick, as he had been away when the magical places of Ireland were parceled out. Upon his return, he begged to use Newgrange for day and night. When it came time for the owner to reclaim his land, Aenghus refused, saying that all time could be divided by day and night. Apparently after consulting a higher court, Newgrange became Aenghus' forever and he lived there with his wife Caer Ibormeith.
Although this does little to help us determine its original use, the possibility that Aenghus died there while visiting does come to mind.
Newgrange is an amazing structure in many respects. It stands in a very commanding position in the valley and can be seen from Tara 15 miles away. Anyone living in the valley at the time of its construction could see Newgrange, which gives one a small idea of the site's significance. The stones used are huge and came from miles away in many cases. Any modern builder would envy a design that has not let a drop of rain into the central chamber in over 5,000 years. In addition, there is the mystery of the Winter Solstice roofbox marking the start of the New Year.
Tourists can still visit Newgrange, but lately its caretakers have noticed that the moisture from the breath of people touring the site is doing damage. In response, a Visitors Center was built which takes visitors on a virtual tour.
The question of the site's original purpose still remains open, although this writer sees the shape of the interior chamber as a clue. Its clover design, is a symbol of perpetuity to this day, and lends credibility to the tomb theory. The triple spiral on the standing stone at the entrance is considered by some to be a symbol of a great migration or journey. It could in this instance symbolize the journey to the otherworld. Whether this is the true purpose of the site or not remains to be seen. Newgrange, and its sister sites of Dowth and Knowth will probably remain a mystery until further excavation and effort is put into their 'rediscovery'.
by BW, February 2000
Special thanks to Ron Bullis, for permission to use the wonderful pictures of Newgrange from his website Photos of the Spirit's Footsteps: A Celtic
Pilgrimage.
Links:
Photos of the Spirit's Footsteps: A Celtic
Pilgrimage
Newgrange and the Bru na Boinne
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